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PDF Pattern Men's shirt

Portland

A classic buttoned shirt with a two-piece collar on a stand, a back yoke, a patch pocket, and sleeves finished with plackets and cuffs.

Man wearing the Portland shirt in burgundy, shown next to front and back technical sketches
M–XXL Sizes included (EU 42–48)
2 Heights: 176 and 182 cm
9 Buttons
12 Pattern pieces

A classic shirt, made properly

The shirt is built the traditional way: a double back yoke that encloses its own seams, a patch pocket on the left front, a collar mounted on a separate stand, and sleeves with a proper placket and a pleat into the cuff.

Nine buttons close the front, the cuffs and the collar stand. The pattern is drafted for two heights, 176 and 182 cm, in four sizes each.

What you'll need

Fabric recommendations

  • Shirting fabrics: shirt cotton, satin, cotton poplin, linen, light denim and similar

Supplies

  • Interfacing — 0.9 m (35.4″)
  • Buttons — 9 pcs
  • Threads to match the fabric

Fabric consumption by size and height

Size M
EU 42
L
EU 44MOST PICKED
XL
EU 46
XXL
EU 48
Main fabric
height 176 cm / 69.3″
160 cm
63″
167 cm
65.7″
174 cm
68.5″
180 cm
70.9″
Main fabric
height 182 cm / 71.6″
170 cm
66.9″
177 cm
69.7″
184 cm
72.4″
190 cm
74.8″

Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (0.39″) seam allowances for all edges except the collar, collar stand, cuff and hem. Collar, collar stand and cuff allowances are 0.7 cm (0.27″); the hem allowance is 1.5 cm (0.59″).

Size chart

Shirt measurements

Tap a size to see it highlighted across the table.

Size M
EU 42
L
EU 44MOST PICKED
XL
EU 46
XXL
EU 48
Width at chest line
both heights
109.5 cm
43.1″
113.5 cm
44.7″
117.5 cm
46.3″
121.5 cm
47.8″
Centre back length
height 176 cm
74 cm
29.1″
74 cm
29.1″
74 cm
29.1″
74 cm
29.1″
Centre back length
height 182 cm
77 cm
30.3″
77 cm
30.3″
77 cm
30.3″
77 cm
30.3″
Sleeve + cuff length
height 176 cm
65.5 cm
25.8″
65.5 cm
25.8″
65.5 cm
25.8″
65.5 cm
25.8″
Sleeve + cuff length
height 182 cm
67.5 cm
26.6″
67.5 cm
26.6″
67.5 cm
26.6″
67.5 cm
26.6″
Shoulder length
both heights
15.8 cm
6.2″
16.1 cm
6.3″
16.4 cm
6.5″
16.7 cm
6.6″
Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Back1
2 — Left front1
3 — Right front1
4 — Sleeve2
5 — Back yoke2
6 — Collar2 + interfacing
7 — Inner collar stand1 + interfacing
8 — Outer collar stand1 + interfacing
9 — Cuff4 + interfacing
10 — Cuff placket underlap2 + interfacing
11 — Cuff placket overlap2 + interfacing
12 — Pocket1
Support pattern
13 — Mark buttons1
14 — Mark buttonholes and buttons1
15 — Mark buttonholes on cuff placket1
16 — Mark buttons on cuff placket underlap1
17 — Mark buttonholes and button1
Interfacing Iron the facing tape to the front pieces (2, 3) along the centre edge. Interface the collar (6), inner collar stand (7), outer collar stand (8), cuff (9), cuff placket underlap (10) and cuff placket overlap (11).
Step by step

Description of tailoring

36 steps in seven stages, from the front placket to the buttonholes.

Front placket and pocket

7 steps
  1. 1

    Iron the facing tape to the front piece, where the buttonholes are to be, along the centre edge. Fold the centre edge twice and press.

  2. 2

    Topstitch the placket at 1 mm (0.04″) from the folded edge.

  3. 3

    Fold the bottom and side raw edges of the patch pocket 1 cm to the wrong side. Fold the upper hem at 2 cm. Press it.

  4. 4

    Serge the upper hem. Bend the upper hem wrong side up and stitch its corners at 1 cm (0.39″) seam allowances.

  5. 5

    Turn to the right side and topstitch at 1 mm (0.04″) from the edge. Press it.

  6. 6

    Chalk the lines for the patch pocket position on the left front piece.

  7. 7

    Pin the pocket to the front panel and chalk the stitching lines on the patch pocket. Sew in place.

Yoke and shoulders

4 steps
  1. 1

    Place the back piece between the yoke pieces. Stitch it.

  2. 2

    Bend the bottom yoke to the back piece and understitch it at 1 mm (0.04″) from the seam.

  3. 3

    Pin the front panels and the upper yoke along the shoulder edges with the right sides together. Pin the bottom yoke with the right side to the front along the shoulder edges.

  4. 4

    Sew in place. Turn to the right side and press. Topstitch the yoke at 1 mm (0.04″) from the seam.

Collar

8 steps
  1. 1

    Iron the interfacing to the collar and stand pieces. Fold the bottom edge of the inner stand at 1 cm and press.

  2. 2

    Pin the collar pieces together with the right sides and stitch at 7 mm from the raw edge.

  3. 3

    Clip the corners and turn to the right side. Press it. Topstitch the collar at 7 mm from the edge.

  4. 4

    Mark the stitching lines on the inner collar stand. Pin the stand pieces to the collar with the right sides together, aligning the notches.

  5. 5

    Stitch at 7 mm from the edge. Trim along the curved edge.

  6. 6

    Turn right side out. Press it. Fold the collar and check if you are satisfied with the result.

  7. 7

    Pin the inner collar stand into the neckline with the right sides together. Sew in place. Press the seam allowances to the collar stand.

  8. 8

    Pin the inner collar stand to the neckline. Stitch at 1 mm from the edge, starting from the shoulder seam. Press it.

Sleeve placket

7 steps
  1. 1

    Iron the interfacing to the cuff placket overlap and underlap. Press the seam allowances on the overlap and underlap.

  2. 2

    Draw a placket opening on the sleeve's wrong side. Pin the underlap and overlap to the line. Sew in place.

  3. 3

    Slash the placket opening and clip diagonally to the corners at the top ends of the opening.

  4. 4

    Turn the overlap and underlap to the right side. Fold the underlap in half with its seam allowances inward and press. Stitch it at 1 mm from the edge.

  5. 5

    Pin the triangle and underlap together and stitch from the right side.

  6. 6

    Fold the placket overlap to the right side of the sleeve. Form it and pin.

  7. 7

    Topstitch at 1 mm from the edge.

Setting the sleeve

3 steps
  1. 1

    Fold the pleat on the sleeve bottom hem.

  2. 2

    Pin the sleeve into the open armhole with the right sides together, aligning the notches. Sew in place. Serge the seam allowances and press them to the armhole. Topstitch the armhole.

  3. 3

    Fold the sleeve in half and pin its side edges. Also pin the front and back pieces along the side edges with the right sides together. Stitch it all at the same time. Serge the seam allowances. Press to the back.

Cuff and hem

5 steps
  1. 1

    Fold and press the upper hem seam allowances of one cuff piece. Pin the cuff pieces together with the right sides and stitch along the 2 short and 1 long edges. Clip the corners.

  2. 2

    Turn the cuff to the right side. Press it.

  3. 3

    Pin the cuff to the sleeve bottom hem from the wrong side. Sew in place. Press the seam allowances to the cuff.

  4. 4

    Pin the cuff's second part and topstitch at 1 mm from the edge.

  5. 5

    Fold the bottom hem of the garment twice and press it. Topstitch it.

Buttons and finishing

2 steps
  1. 1

    Mark the place of the buttons and buttonholes on the front, cuffs and collar stand. Sew the buttons and work the buttonholes.

  2. 2

    Iron the garment.

The shirt is ready!
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